i watched the most amazing thing this morning. Nick and I were surfing the point at low tide…it was a little after six am. The lefts were coming through a bit too fast, so we went to the second peak — it’s our favorite anyway because you can go either right or left. The current was crazy fast — if you weren’t paddling against it, it didn’t take a minute to move north 500 yards. Anyway, Nick got caught in the current and as I looked north, I saw him dropping in on a solid left (call it third peak). But the best part was the two dolphins who lept out the back of that wave as he was dropping in…they were easily 6 to 8 feet out of the water. They swam towards me, lept out of the water again; and for a minute, I was afraid that one might land on me. They played in the surf for the rest of the session — it was fun to watch. Now, we see dolphins all the time…but today was different. It was cool.
I’ll post the song of the day in a bit — I need to eat something.
Today’s song of the day is "Umi Says," by Mos Def. It’s just the mellow post-surf session track that I need.
cool.out.with.mos.def